FIDENCIO CLÁSICO
“The beauty of spirits is the way it bottles history, geography, and anthropology. Mezcal imbibes the warm and vibrant heritage of Mexico and provides a deep and rich exploration into the history of agave spirits.”
A brief course in agave spirits nomenclature may be helpful. Agave, also called maguey, is a plant native to the arid regions of Mexico with over 50 species and countless subsets of varieties used in making agave spirits. Agave spirits have been crafted by hand by the rural communities throughout Mexico for over 400 years. Tequila is an officially produced spirit from blue agave in one of five Mexican states. The Mexican government granted tequila a denominación de origen in 1974, and become the primary agave spirit exported to the USA and other countries over the last 40 years. In 1994 mezcal received the denominación de origen as legally defined as a spirit made from agave and produced in one of nine Mexican states. Each agave spirit has its own set of regulations determined by the Mexican government to differentiate the unique expressions of the agave spirits. In a similar way Champagne is only champagne if it is from Champagne, mezcal is only mezcal if it is from Mexico. It’s amazing the amount of geography, government, and history that fits into a highball glass.
When I tasted Fidencio Clásico I was completely unaware the history of mezcal, and would have missed I was enjoying four generations of artistry and craftsmanship if it would not have been for a bartender passionate about mezcal. She had visited the Fidencio palenque (distillery) and shared the family history with me as I savored the clear smokey spirit.
Over 100 years ago Fidencio Jimenez moved his family to Oaxaca, Mexico and began distilling mezcal using clay pots for fermentation, distillation & storage. Jimenez apprenticed the trade to his son Enrique, who then passed it on to his son Isaac. Isaac passed it on to his son Enrique Jimenez, Jr., who is now the fourth generation mezcalero (distiller). She met his two children, who Enrique Jr. is now training to continue crafting the family mezcal.
The process in crafting Fidencio Clásico is the agave are roasted underground for five days over black oak. They are then crushed under a tahona (horse-drawn stone wheel) and fermented for two weeks. The mezcal is then distilled in a traditional, wood fired, simple copper still, similar to the stills used in Cognac. The result is a spirit with a nose of tobacco, tar, pine, and pineapple. The palate is a woody smoke and green pepper distinctive to mezcal. Although mezcal is bottled between 45-55% ABV, unlike other high proof spirits the agave provides a viscous mouth coat for a smooth finish.
Fidencio Clásico is a warm and inviting introduction to mezcal for both sipping and mixing. My cocktail of choice with Fidencio Clásico is a Oaxaca Old Fashioned. Stir 2oz mezcal, .5oz black pepper simple syrup (1:1:1 water, sugar, black pepper), and 2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters, garnish with flamed orange peel.
Mezcal is a reminder of the history and heritage of so many countries and cultures we enjoy every time we raise a glass. Salud!
Jared Ray Mackey
Read more about the history of the Jimenez family.
